There’s a slight chill, perfect for long-distance running, and yellow is appearing in the tulip tree forests. The dinner I made was like an October Thanksgiving, with squash and red onion garnished with lemon and za’atar. I also made a cauliflower salad, from Ottolenghi and Tamimi, with roasted hazelnuts. I am not much a hazelnut person and tend to describe them as tasteless in most contexts, but I will concede they are appropriate mixed with cauliflower and one or two tablespoons of sherry vinegar and maple syrup, and a little bit of cinnamon and allspice. Other ingredients you can include are raw celery root and pomegranate seeds. Pumpkin bread was for dessert.

(Photo: Courthouse neighborhood, Arlington, Virginia.)

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